Waves March 17

Waves

"It's time to go!" my mom yells from a chair settled on the soft sand. For the last hour or so, I had been playing in the clear, turquoise waters of Hapuna beach on the island of Hawaii, but it was time to leave to go have lunch. These waves had been stirred up by the hurricane passing by, and had been consistently five feet or bigger. This meant you could do fun things such as trying to swim over or under them. They were way to big to boogie board or body surf on. Sadly, I had to leave them behind. My sister starts swimming towards the shore, and I follow her. I get the to the point where I can stand, and start sprinting towards the warm, dry, sand. The moment my feet hit the ground, I start being pulled backwards by the water in front of me. It gets stronger, and no matter how fast I run, I know I won't get anywhere. I look over my shoulder to see a five foot wave towering over me, constantly growing in size with all the water it picks up. It's now six feet. Seven feet. Eight feet. The front of the wave turns still and glassy, and I know it"s about to break right on top of me. Time seems to slow down. I hear a roar on all sides of me as this massive wave comes down on me. I close my eyes. I don't even know how many times I flip over, or roll sideways. I come to a rest on the sand as the wave retreats back into the ocean. I stand up and walk unharmed over to my family.

"At least I didn't hit a rock", I say to them.